I bought my first Nikon F100 in late 2022 for £180 from a camera shop in Brighton. At the time, I was primarily shooting digital with a Canon 5D Mark III, but I wanted a film body that would work with the couple of Nikkor Lenses I had borrowed from a friend. Three years and roughly 100 rolls of film later, I’m finally ready to share what I’ve actually learned.
This isn’t a review I wrote after shooting one roll through the camera. This is the distillation of thousands of frames shot in the Countryside in driving rain, on the streets of London at night, across 4 countries on three continents, and during the mundane daily moments that make up most of our lives as photographers. My F100 has earned every scratch on its magnesium body.
What I’ll cover in this review:
- Who should (and shouldn’t) buy the F100
- Real-world autofocus and metering performance
- Honest comparison with the F5, F6, and Canon EOS-1V
- Current pricing and what to look for when buying used
- Sample images from various film stocks I’ve shot
Quick Verdict
| Aspect | Rating |
|---|---|
| Build Quality | 9/10 |
| Autofocus | 8/10 |
| Metering | 7.5/10 |
| Ergonomics | 9/10 |
| Value for Money | 10/10 |
| Overall | 9/10 |
Perfect for: Nikon DSLR owners wanting to try film, working photographers who need professional features without bulk, anyone seeking the best value in 35mm SLRs.
Look elsewhere if: You want mechanical simplicity, you’re committed to pre-AI manual focus lenses, or weather sealing is essential.
What Is the Nikon F100?
Released in 1999 at approximately $1,000 USD new, the Nikon F100 was positioned as a “prosumer” camera, bridging the gap between Nikon’s flagship F5 and the eventual F6. But calling it prosumer undersells what this camera actually is: a professional-grade body with roughly 90% of the F5’s capability at half the weight and (today) a fraction of the cost.
Nikon had a tradition of doing this, releasing “bridge” cameras between generations of professional cameras that borrowed heavily from the flagship. The N8008 did this between the F3 and F4. The N90 bridged the F4 and F5. The F100 connected the F5 to the F6. Unlike its predecessors, however, the F100 punched so far above its weight class that working professionals adopted it as their primary body.
I’ve seen wedding photographers on Reddit still using the F100 as a film backup in 2025. That tells you something about its staying power.
Nikon F100 Specifications
| Specification | Details |
|---|---|
| Release Year | 1999 |
| Original MSRP | ~$1,000 USD |
| Current Used Price | £150-300 / $180-350 |
| Mount | Nikon F-mount |
| Body Material | Magnesium alloy (except film door) |
| Dimensions | 155 × 113 × 66mm |
| Weight | 785g (body only), 879g with batteries |
| Shutter Speed | 30 sec to 1/8000 sec, Bulb |
| ISO Range | 6-6400 (DX coded) |
| Metering | 10-segment 3D Matrix, Center-weighted (75%/12mm), Spot (1%) |
| Autofocus | 5-point with 3 cross-type sensors |
| Frame Rate | 4.5 fps (5 fps with MB-15 grip) |
| Flash Sync | 1/250 sec |
| Viewfinder | 96% coverage, 0.76× magnification |
| Battery | 4× AA (MS-12 holder included) |
My Real-World Experience
The First Roll: Immediate Impressions
The moment I loaded my first roll of Kodak Portra 400 into the F100, I felt at home. Having spent years shooting DSLRs, the control layout was immediately familiar the same command dials, similar button placement, nearly identical ergonomics. If you’ve used any Nikon from the D7000 era onwards, you’ll pick up the F100 within minutes.
What surprised me was the speed. The autofocus locked on faster than I expected from a 1999 camera, the shutter fired with a satisfying mechanical snap, and the motor advanced film with a confidence that felt almost wasteful after years of careful, single-frame digital shooting.
That first roll came back from the lab, and I was hooked.
100 Rolls Later: What Held Up
Autofocus Performance
The 5-point AF system isn’t going to compete with modern mirrorless cameras or even the 51-point system in the D750 but it’s more than adequate for 90% of real-world shooting situations. The three cross-type sensors in the centre handle most scenarios reliably.
Where it struggles: Low-contrast subjects in dim light. I’ve had the F100 hunt in candlelit restaurants and during blue hour shoots. The solution is straightforward: pre-focus, focus and recompose, or switch to manual focus using the focus mode lever on the body.
Where it excels: Tracking moving subjects. I shot my sisters wedding with the F100 as a film backup, and the Dynamic Area AF mode tracked her walking down the aisle without a single missed frame. For street photography which makes up most of my shooting the AF is fast enough that I rarely miss a moment.
One quirk to note: When using Dynamic AF, the viewfinder doesn’t show which AF point actually locked focus it only shows your initially selected point. You learn to trust the camera.
Metering Accuracy
The 10-segment 3D Matrix meter is the F100’s most commonly criticised feature. Compared to the F5’s 1005-element sensor, it sounds primitive. In practice? It’s been reliable for roughly 85% of my shots.
When matrix metering works well:
- Front-lit subjects in even lighting
- Overcast days
- Most daylight outdoor situations
When matrix metering struggles:
- Strong backlighting (underexposes by 1-2 stops)
- High-contrast scenes with bright sky
- Snow and beach environments (overcompensates)
I’ve learned to switch to center-weighted metering for backlit portraits and spot metering for high-contrast scenes. Once you understand the meter’s personality, it becomes predictable which is all you can ask from any metering system.
Pro tip: If you’re shooting slide film like Velvia or Provia, I’d recommend bracketing in tricky light. The F100’s auto-bracketing function makes this painless.
Build Quality After 3 Years of Heavy Use
My F100 has been dropped once (waist height onto concrete in Prague), caught in rain on multiple occasions, subjected to -12°C Scottish winter mornings, and baked in 40°C island heat. The body shows honest wear the rubber grip has a small tear, there’s a cosmetic dent on the pentaprism housing but it functions identically to day one.
The one weak point is the film door. The plastic latch mechanism feels cheap compared to the magnesium alloy body. Mine has held up, but I’ve read forum posts from photographers whose latches have broken. I’m gentle with it and always close the door with two hands.
Another durability note: Early production F100 bodies (1999-2000) had issues with a plastic film rewind fork that could break. Later production runs fixed this. Check the serial number if buying used anything after 2001 should be fine.
Who Should Buy the Nikon F100?
Perfect For:
Nikon DSLR owners exploring film photography
This is the F100’s killer feature. If you own Nikon AF-D, AF-S, or G-type lenses, they’ll work perfectly on the F100 with full autofocus and matrix metering. My 50mm f/1.8G, 35mm f/2D, and 85mm f/1.8D all perform identically to how they work on my digital bodies. No adapters, no compromises, no learning curve.
Working photographers adding film to client work
The F100’s modern interface means no time wasted adapting to archaic controls. Aperture-priority mode works exactly like your digital camera. TTL flash works with modern Nikon Speedlights. You can go from a digital shoot to film backup seamlessly.
Budget-conscious enthusiasts wanting professional features
At £150-300 used, the F100 offers capabilities that would have cost £3,000+ when new. The 1/8000 shutter speed alone essential for shooting wide-open with fast lenses in bright conditions commands a premium on most film cameras.
Look Elsewhere If:
You want a mechanical backup camera
The F100 is entirely electronic. No batteries = no camera. If you want something that works indefinitely without power, look at the Nikon FM2 or FM3A. These mechanical bodies will fire without batteries (though you’ll lose the meter).
You’re invested in pre-AI manual focus lenses
The F100 cannot mount pre-AI lenses without modification and unlike the F5, no such modification is available. AI and AI-S lenses mount and work but lose matrix metering (center-weighted and spot still function). If your collection is primarily vintage Nikkor glass from the 1960s-70s, the F4 or F5 offer better compatibility.
Weather sealing is essential for your work
The F100 is weather-resistant, not weather-sealed. I’ve shot in light rain and mist without issue, but I wouldn’t take it into a tropical downpour or dusty desert environment without protection. The F5 and F6 offer superior environmental sealing.
Nikon F100 vs. The Competition
F100 vs. Nikon F5
| Feature | F100 | F5 |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | 785g | 1,210g |
| Battery | 4× AA | 8× AA |
| Metering | 10-segment 3D | 1005-element RGB |
| Frame Rate | 4.5 fps (5 with grip) | 8 fps |
| Weather Sealing | Resistant | Professional-grade |
| Mirror Lock-up | No | Yes |
| Eyepiece Shutter | No | Yes |
| Pre-AI Lens Mod | Not possible | Available |
| Current Price | £150-300 | £200-400 |
My take: The F5 is objectively more capable, but the F100 is more usable for most photographers. I’ve shot with both, and the F5’s weight becomes genuinely exhausting on all-day shoots. The better metering on the F5 is noticeable in tricky light, but not £100+ better. For sports or wildlife where 8fps and bulletproof weather sealing matter, choose the F5. For everything else, the lighter F100 wins.
F100 vs. Nikon F6
| Feature | F100 | F6 |
|---|---|---|
| Metering | 10-segment | 1005-element RGB |
| AF Points | 5 | 11 |
| LCD | Basic | Full info display |
| Data Imprinting | No | Yes |
| Build | Excellent | Best-in-class |
| Current Price | £150-300 | £1,200-2,000+ |
My take: The F6 is quite possibly the finest 35mm SLR ever manufactured. If budget is genuinely no concern and you want the absolute best film SLR experience, buy the F6. For everyone else, the F100 delivers 80% of the F6’s real-world performance at 15-20% of the price. I’ve never felt limited by my F100 in a way that made me wish I’d spent six times as much.
F100 vs. Canon EOS-1V
The Canon EOS-1V is the F100’s closest cross-brand competitor, similar era, similar market position, similar overall capability. Both are excellent. Canon owners should choose the 1V to use their existing lenses; Nikon owners should choose the F100. Performance is effectively equal; lens compatibility is the deciding factor.
Lens Compatibility: What Actually Works
This is where the F100 requires careful attention. Here’s a complete breakdown:
| Lens Type | Autofocus | Matrix Metering | Aperture Control |
|---|---|---|---|
| AF-S G-type | ✓ Full | ✓ Full 3D | Camera body |
| AF-S D-type | ✓ Full | ✓ Full 3D | Lens ring or body |
| AF-D | ✓ Full | ✓ Full 3D | Lens ring |
| AF (non-D) | ✓ Full | ✓ (no 3D)* | Lens ring |
| AI-S | Manual only | ✗ | Lens ring |
| AI | Manual only | ✗ | Lens ring |
| Pre-AI | ✗ Won’t mount | ✗ | — |
*Non-D AF lenses work with matrix metering but lose the 3D distance information rarely noticeable in practice.
My Recommended Lenses for the F100
Based on three years of shooting:
Prime Lenses:
- Nikon 50mm f/1.8D (£80-120) — Sharp, fast, absurdly affordable. My most-used lens.
- Nikon 35mm f/2D (£180-280) — Classic focal length, built like a tank.
- Nikon 85mm f/1.8D (£200-300) — Gorgeous portraits, smooth bokeh.
- Nikon 24mm f/2.8D (£200-280) — Wide without distortion, sharp corners.
Zoom Lenses:
- Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8D (£350-500) — Professional workhorse, not light.
- Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8D (£300-450) — The “two-ring” version is superb.
Buying Guide: What to Look For in 2026
Where to Buy
Recommended sources:
- KEH Camera (USA) — Excellent grading system, 180-day warranty. I’d trust their “Bargain” grade for functional bodies.
- MPB (UK/EU) — Similar grading system to KEH, good return policy.
- Japan eBay sellers — Often pristine condition, but factor in import duty and shipping.
Approach with caution:
- Ungraded eBay listings without detailed photos
- Facebook Marketplace (no buyer protection)
- “For parts or repair” listings (unless you’re handy with electronics)
What to Check Before Buying
Ask the seller:
- Approximate shutter count if known (aim for under 50,000 actuations)
- Any battery compartment corrosion history
- Film door latch condition
- Whether it’s been serviced or repaired
When it arrives, test immediately:
- Load a test roll and verify the meter responds to light changes
- Test each autofocus point individually
- Listen for unusual shutter sounds at various speeds
- Check the LCD for dead/faded segments
- Verify the film door seals completely with no light gaps
- Test the film rewind function completes properly
Current Pricing (February 2026)
| Condition | UK Price | US Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mint/Like New | £280-350 | $320-400 | Rare, usually Japanese |
| Excellent | £200-280 | $250-320 | Light wear, fully functional |
| Good | £150-200 | $180-250 | Honest wear, everything works |
| User Grade | £100-150 | $120-180 | Heavy wear, may need service |
Prices have been stable for the past 18 months. Unlike the Contax T2 or Yashica T4, the F100 hasn’t experienced Instagram-driven price inflation—it remains genuine value.
Sample Images
Kodak Portra 400: Street Photography, London
Camera: Nikon F100 | Lens: Nikkor 35mm f/2D | Exposure: f/5.6, 1/250s, Matrix metering
The Portra 400 and F100 combination was my default set-up for street shooting. The matrix meter handles Portra’s generous latitude well, and the muted colours work beautifully with UK light.
Ilford HP5+: London Streetview
Camera: Nikon F100 | Lens: Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8D | Exposure: f/8, 1/125s, pushed to ISO 800
Shot from the top of one of the buildings near Bank Station in the heart of London using self-developed Ilford HP5+.
Kodak Portra 400: Travel, Broadstairs, UK
Camera: Nikon F100 | Lens: Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D | Exposure: f/4, 1/250s
This image leans into Portra 400’s gentle magic: warm highlights, creamy midtones, and just enough saturation to make the brick and sky feel sunlit rather than loud.
Kodak Portra 400: Everyday Snapshots
Camera: Nikon F100 | Lens: Nikkor 35mm f/2D | Exposure: f/4, 1/120s
IShot on Portra 400, the sea keeps its cool blue restraint while the sky drifts toward a pale, almost pastel calm, letting motion live without aggression.
Common Questions
Is the Nikon F100 still worth buying in 2026?
Absolutely. Despite being 27 years old, the F100 remains the best value proposition in 35mm film SLRs. Its modern feature set, Nikon lens compatibility, and robust build make it a camera you can rely on for years not just a shelf display piece.
How does the F100 compare to shooting digital?
The experience is remarkably similar if you’re coming from Nikon DSLRs. The major differences are: cost per frame (roughly 30-50p per shot including development and scanning), the delayed gratification of waiting for lab results, and the forced intentionality of 36 frames per roll. Many photographers find these constraints creatively liberating.
What film stocks work best with the F100?
The F100 is film-agnostic it’ll shoot anything you load. Based on my experience:
- Everyday colour: Kodak Portra 400, Kodak Gold 200, Fuji Superia 400
- Low light: Kodak Portra 800, Ilford Delta 3200, Cinestill 800T
- Landscapes: Kodak Ektar 100, Fuji Provia 100F (slide)
- Black & White: Ilford HP5+, Kodak Tri-X 400, Ilford FP4+
- Budget-friendly: Kodak ColorPlus 200, Fomapan 400
How many rolls can I expect per set of batteries?
With four fresh Energizer Lithium AA batteries: approximately 50-70 rolls without flash use. Standard alkaline batteries give 25-40 rolls and struggle in cold weather. I always carry a spare set on multi-day trips.
Does the F100 have any common failure points?
- Film door latch — Can weaken with rough handling. Be gentle.
- Rubber grip — Tends to deteriorate and become tacky over time. Replacements are available online for about £15.
- Battery compartment — Can corrode if stored with batteries. Always remove batteries for long-term storage.
- Error codes — Various “Err” messages usually indicate aperture communication issues. Often solved by cleaning lens contacts.
Final Verdict: Is the F100 a “Forever Camera”?
After three years and over 100 rolls, my Nikon F100 has proven itself as a genuine working tool—not a novelty for shooting film ironically, not a hipster accessory, but a reliable piece of professional equipment that happens to cost less than a nice dinner out.
Is it perfect? No. The film door feels cheap compared to the rest of the body. The matrix metering has predictable blind spots. The lack of mirror lock-up is occasionally frustrating for landscape work on a tripod. The battery dependency means no shooting if you forget spare AAs.
These are compromises I happily accept for a camera that cost me less than a single professional lens and has never let me down when it mattered.
For Nikon shooters curious about film photography, the F100 is the obvious choice—your lenses already work, the controls are already familiar, and the learning curve is measured in minutes rather than weeks.
For anyone else seeking a capable, affordable, professional-grade film SLR, it’s genuinely difficult to recommend anything else at this price point.
My rating: 9/10
Three years in, I have no intention of replacing it.
Where to Buy the Nikon F100
- KEH Camera — US-based, excellent grading and warranty
- MPB — UK/EU-based, similar quality standards
- eBay — Variable quality, check seller ratings carefully
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Article last updated: February 2026
Rolls shot for this review: 100+
Testing period: October 2022 – February 2026
Related Reviews
- Nikon FE Review — For those wanting a more compact, mechanical option
- Nikon FM2 Review — The legendary fully mechanical Nikon
- Nikon F4 Review — The F100’s professional predecessor
- Best 35mm Film for Beginners — What to load in your F100